Out With the Old and In With the New

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

Cliche title I know, but I was so happy to let 2017 explode in a shower of fireworks over Sydney Harbour.

Photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

We finished off the old year and began the new with good friends. 

We’re told that apartment there, in the photo above, is where Nicole Kidman lives. If you look real close you can see two silhouettes on the rooftop terrace.

Dear friends shared their home and family with us for a traditional Aussie/Kiwi Christmas, replete with crackers and paper crowns and a pudding whose recipe has been passed down through the generations.

We had a visitor from the US join us, making the day even more special. She refers to herself as our DNA daughter, damn near adopted. That she is. She first came into our life as my son’s high school sweetheart. That didn’t work out so well, but we’d already formed a bond we weren’t interested in breaking.

As has become our holiday tradition, we journeyed down the south coast of New South Wales. We retraced the route we took last year, wanting to share some of our favorite places with our visitor.


In North Batemans Bay, hidden down a gravel drive, you’ll find scrumptious oysters, fresh from the water. This area is part of the oyster trail, that begins in Shoalhaven and travels south to Wonboyn. Have a few of these as your appetizer, then head on across the bridge to….

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

…Innes Boat Shed for the very best fish and chips around. Just go ahead and stuff yourself on oysters and fish. It’s so good.

 

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography
The south coast is sprinkled with charming little villages set between coast and rolling farmland. The wooden Santas sitting on awnings seemed to be a theme.

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

As has also become our custom, we journeyed a bit farther than the year before, down to Merimbula. We had a perfect AirBnB unit, just a short walk from the water in two directions. I was too eager to get my feet in the water and couldn’t bear to wait until the next day, so my beloved and I walked to the beach, completely forgetting how early it gets dark down here. I’m still accustomed to northern hemisphere summers where it stays light until late.

At the end of the trail leading to the beach, we placed our shoes by the fence, so we didn’t have to carry them. We walked along the water’s edge, splashing, talking, stealing kisses. After we’d gone a very long ways, we realized it was getting dark, and turned around. In no time at all, it was like someone had drawn a curtain over the sky. We couldn’t see. Craig used his camera flash to light the bush that lined the beach. There were many of these kinds of trails leading off, but we didn’t see any with shoes, that might lead us back from whence we came! We continued to walk and flash and after a very gigglesome time, the flash reflected off a pair of sneakers hanging over the fence.

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

The next stop on our journey was Melbourne, a city we just can’t seem to get enough of.  

On our final day in Melbourne, a hellish heat wave arrived. The news warned people to take care and stay inside. There was still much to show our DNA daughter, so we got creative and traveled across the CBD by cutting through air conditioned shopping arcades. While standing in the Block Arcade, deciding where to go next, I happened to notice that we were standing by Hopetoun Tea Room and there was no queue! I’ve never been able to get in because I’m not willing to stand in line for an hour just to eat a pastry. “Quick!” I said, “make a line!” We did and were seated promptly. Now that I’ve had their pastry and amazing tea, I think it could be worth standing around awhile.

photo courtesy Shaedow Photography

The last stop of our holiday landed us in Canberra, where we visited the National Museum of Australia and the Songlines exhibition about the Aboriginal Seven Sisters Dreaming stories. It’s only there until the end of February, so if you have a chance at all, do go see it.

Also at the museum was the Midawarr/Harvest exhibit. I was mesmerized by this watercolor painting Distant Glimpses by John Wolseley. Comprised of many paper panels, it spanned the width of the gallery, and contained watercolor, printing, sketches, and I think even some collage. 

We had such a short time in Canberra, that we didn’t get to see much more than this museum and an amazing pork sandwich at Mocan & Green Grout, which is most definitely a worthy destination. We were told by several folks that there wasn’t much to do in Canberra. That was simply incorrect information. Next visit, and there must be a next visit, will include all the other museums: The National Portrait Gallery, The National Gallery of Australia, the Library, The National Science and Technology Centre…. The list goes on and on, not to mention the historical government buildings to see. At just three hours from Sydney, I’m thinking this would be a perfect weekend trip. 

“Oh honeeey!” (starts packing bags)

Musing on Melbourne Part Two

window dressing

Looking at a map of Melbourne’s city center, you see a mostly rectilinear geometry of parallel and perpendicular streets. Vintage maroon and green trams travel the City Circle route, which marks the boundary of the free tram zone. It is on foot, though, that you’ll find the wonder of this city. Step inside those straight lines and you’ll discover a magical universe where around every corner is another surprise.

The State Library, a popular place to congregate for an al fresco lunch.

Melbourne is a very youthful, hipster city. The first things I noticed were women wearing fashionable yet sensible shoes instead of the towering black ankle booties you find on every young woman in Sydney and the absence of prams.

As I discovered two years ago when we first moved to Australia, there is a rivalry of sorts between Sydney and Melbourne for who makes the best coffee. Don’t tell Sydney I said this, but so far the best coffee I’ve discovered was in Melbourne at Brother Baba Budan , part of the Seven Seeds family. It’s a tiny little place with more chairs hanging from the ceiling than sitting on the floor. At any time you’ll find it jam packed full of coffee lovers, and the coffee is well worth it. Pick up a packet of beans to brew at home. The Adado Gedeo Ethiopia was a revelation.

cocoa and fairy floss at Hash

Another unique, hot beverage experience awaits you at Hash Specialty Coffee & Roasters. It’s a thick, Italian style hot chocolate served in a beaker, which you then pour over the lofty mountain of fairy floss (cotton candy). Myself, I skipped the spun sugar and went straight for the pudding-like chocolate.

Spicy BBQ Pork Bowl at Paperboy Kitchen

Melbournians are spoiled for choice when it comes to food and drink, and we sampled as much as we could in a week. One night we met up with some American friends for pre-dinner drinks at the Gin Palace, a moody, speak-easy kinda joint, with intimate seating arrangements of low, plush couches, and novel length list of martini choices.

After that, we moved on to Meatmaiden, where, as you can guess from the name, they serve a lot of meat. The food was delicious and beautifully presented. One of the highlights of the visit had to be watching the tables full of very large and hungry footy players. They devoured an awful lot of food and, as we got there late, there was a lot of the menu missing. The chef was very kind and sent us some on-the-house goodies.

Another popular spot was Naked For Satan in Fitzroy, a suburb just northeast of the city center. Leon Satanovich ran a vodka still in this building during the Depression. Because of the blasting heat, he worked in his undies. Folks who came to taste his vodka used the code phrase “let’s get naked for Satan.”  We sat on the rooftop terrace, watched the sun go down and feasted on Basque inspired small plates.

On our last day, we had a farewell to Melbourne meal at Terra Rossa on Flinders Lane. We had the Margherita pizza with fior de latte. Mmmmm!

Wunderkammer

Between meals, Melbourne is a literal cabinet of curiosities, starting with Wunderkammer, which was exactly that. It was filled with skeletons, fossils and minerals, taxidermy, mounted insects and strange little contraptions.

l’uccello

My favorite find, the one I dream of, was l’uccello Vintage Haberdashery & Fancy Goods in the Cathedral Arcade. It was a textile artist’s heaven. Plus, I just like to say “haberdashery.”

l’uccello

It was overflowing with vintage ribbons and buttons, with silk embroidery floss, Liberty of London and French General fabric.

l’uccello

And the Holy Grail of textile arts, something I never expected to see in real life, Sophie Digard scarves and necklaces. I’m having to fan myself right now; I feel faint thinking of it.

As I left l’uccello, I wandered in another shop next door. Fascinated with the collection of objects and the fanciful curating, I was snapping photos and wondering why there was no proprietor. I was alone in the shop until a woman whispered past me and said, “I didn’t see that.” “Didn’t see what?” I asked. The photos. Apparently I wasn’t to be taking photos. It seems a few months back, some extremist Christians had been in, snapped photos and then publicly denounced the shop owner as a Satanist. I couldn’t see anything in the shop that would give someone that idea, but I put my camera down and followed the woman into her shop, the Muses of Mystery.

Muses of Mystery

I had to scratch my head, wondering why the other guy’s shop was targeted. I had a lovely chat with Vikkhi and an enjoyable wander around her shop.

Haunted Bookshop

Another place I found in a local guide and was keen to visit was the Haunted Bookshop. I’m pretty sure the fellow behind the counter is the resident haint. When I asked to see tarot cards he might as well have chased me out of the store rattling chains and howling for all the help he gave. He made it abundantly clear that I was not welcome there. Maybe it was the camera.

 

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Musing on Melbourne

National Gallery of Victoria

I struggle to breathe when I think of what tomorrow brings. I feel like all the oxygen has been sucked out of the air. I vacillate between wanting to bury myself in some activity that wipes out all other thought, and thinking, “no-no-no, I have to do SOMETHING!” Tomorrow I will do a thing, a starting point; I will go to the Women’s March in Sydney. I will dress in black to signify my state of mourning for my country of origin. For today, I will pretend that all is well, and I’ll go on a little mental journey to Melbourne.

I discovered Melbourne last June when I accompanied my husband on a business trip, and I fell in love immediately! I was enchanted with the old world charm, the colorful laneways, and all the twisty-turny places where you can discover delightful surprises.

Our adventure began at the Historic Port Authority Building, an example of Neo-Grec architecture, which was completed in 1931. The granite and marble-filled building is now an apartment space, where we enjoyed an Airbnb stay. I could have spent the day looking at each fine detail of this building, but the husband was doing a lot of heavy sighing, so we went out the door and into the city.

The Forum Theatre

The city center is laid out in a what’s known as the Hoddle Grid, oriented 70 degrees off from true north.  The main streets which run NE to SW and SE to NW are lined with stunning architecture.

Town Hall

Wandering off from those straight lines you’ll discover the laneways, little alleys that run between the main thoroughfares and sometimes veer off into dead ends.

I immediately lost my husband to the graffiti covered walls.

The street art is one of Melbourne’s main attractions.

St. Paul’s Cathedral

Among the architectural highlights are the churches. I’m not a religious person, and yet I find myself fascinated by sacred architecture.

Go Go Bar

Our hosts were serious foodies and gave us many good suggestions for places to eat. Nearby was the popular Chin Chin. When we got there, the wait was only 15 minutes, so we went downstairs to the Go Go Bar and had an amazing espresso martini. By the time we were seated the line was snaking out the door, around the corner, down the laneway. The food was worthy of that line, but I am so glad we arrived when we did!

Walking down the sidewalk on the way to dinner, I caught a glimpse of glowing light through the stained glass of the Cathedral Arcade and had to duck in for a quick photo.

The Royal Arcade

The arcades are beautiful shopping centers dating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

One of the selling points of this city, for me, is you can find a farmers market almost any day of the week. We hopped over to the Queen Victoria Market on Sunday. There we discovered the Brazilian Festival where they were smoking a lot of meat!

A lot of meat!

I spent a good few days wandering this beautiful city and really barely touched on it. What I did see is too much for one blog post. I’ll be back with some highlights of the amazing food, beverages, and some quirky little shops I found. In the meantime, I’m planning our next trip there, which will include revisiting some of my favorite spots!

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